Author: Lonely Planet
Category: Nonfiction
Go to read content：https://onlinereadfreenovel.com/lonely-planet/page,20,460391-lonely_planet_laos.html
1Sights
Wat Thadsuvanna PhakhamBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດທາດສວັນນະຜ້າຄຳ hdawn-dusk)
Commanding the rise directly above the speedboat landing, 3km south of the central area, Wat Thadsuvanna Phakham is a colourful new temple featuring a row of eight gilded Buddhas demonstrating the main meditation postures and disdaining Mekong views beneath floral foliage.
Wat Khonekeo XaiyaramBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດໂຄນແກ້ວ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)
Wat Khonekeo Xaiyaram, in Ban Khonekeo, has a lavish frontage with dazzling red, gold and green pillars and doors.
Wat Keophone SavanthanaramBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)
Wat Keophone Savanthanaram features murals of gruesome torture scenes on the north wall of the sǐm (ordination hall), while on the slope above a long Buddha reclines behind chicken wire.
Fort CarnotFORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The very dilapidated shell of French-built Fort Carnot sits on the hilltop behind the Bokeo Governor's Office. Two towers are still standing, one straddling the gateway, but the tiles are falling off the old barrack room roofs and the whole sparse site is hardly a highlight of Huay Xai.
Main MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-12pm)
Tucked in the valley behind Fort Carnot is Huay Xai's vibrant main market.
2Activities
Most hill-tribe treks advertised by Huay Xai agencies actually start from Vieng Phukha so it's generally better to book them there. One-day tours to Souvannakhomkham, including a boat ride around the Golden Triangle, are also offered but there are rarely enough travellers signing up to make the prices viable. A DIY trip by motorbike is easier to arrange.
Lao Red CrossMASSAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-211935; massage per hour from 35,000K, herbal sauna 15,000K; h1.30-9pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-9pm Sat & Sun)
Lao Red Cross offers Swedish-Lao massage and a traditional herbal sauna (from 4pm) in a stately old mansion beside the Mekong.
THE GIBBON EXPERIENCE
Adrenalin meets conservation in this ecofriendly adventure in the 1060 sq km of the Bokeo Nature Reserve wilderness, home to tigers, clouded leopards, black bears and the black-crested gibbon. The Gibbon Experience is essentially a series of navigable 'ziplines' among pristine forest canopy.
Back in 1996 poaching was threatening the extinction of the black-crested gibbon, when Animo, a brilliantly inventive conservation-based tour group, convinced the hunters of Bokeo to become the forest's guardians. As guides they now earn more for their families than in their old predatory days.
The benchmark for sustainable monkey business, this two- to three-day experience is one of Laos' most unforgettable adventures, and your chance to play Tarzan; living two nights in soaring treehouses within thickly forested hills and swinging high across valleys on incredible ziplines, some more than 500m long. It's a heart-stopping, superhero experience. Should it rain, remember you need more time to slow down with your brake (a humble bit of bike tyre). The guides are helpful, though make sure you're personally vigilant with the knots in your harness. It's optional to wear a helmet, but we recommend asking for one – given the speed you travel along the cable you wouldn't want your head to come into contact with it. Also check that your karabiner actually closes.
There are three options: the two-day Express, during which there's little chance of seeing the gibbons, and the three-day Classic and Waterfall. While there's a good chance you'll hear the mellow ray-gun whoop-whoop of the gibbon's call at dawn, seeing a gibbon is less likely (though not unheard of). That said, the gibbons are flourishing and the treehouses for the Classic and Waterfall are built close to where these magnificent arboreal athletes live. All three trips involve a serious amount of trekking, particularly the Classic. And should you be here when it rains heavily, you may have to abandon Animo's vehicle and walk the slippery dirt roads to reach the park. We recommend you're in good shape for all three options.
Accommodation is located in unique thatched treehouses that are spaced sufficiently far from each other so that each feels entirely alone in the jungle. Often around 40m above the ground and set in natural amphitheatres with spectacular views, most of the treehouses sleep eight people with bedding laid out beneath large cloth nets, although some treehouses sleep just two people. Large spiders on the walls and rats rustling in the ceilings will be your companions too, but this is the jungle after all. Well-cooked meals consisting of rice and four accompaniments are ziplined in from one of three rustic kitchens, while coffee, tea, hot chocolate and various additional snacks are available in each treehouse. Keeping anything edible in the provided strong box is essential to avoid the forest rats being attracted.
Check in at the Huay Xai Gibbon Experience Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-212021; www.gibbonexperience.org; Th Saykhong; h8am-7pm) one day before departure. Gloves (essential for using the ziplines) are sold next door, as are spiked rubber jungle shoes (US$3). Other recommended items for your adventure include hiking boots, long socks, industrial-strength mozzie repellent, a torch (flashlight), water bottle and earplugs. Everything you bring must be carried on your back while hiking and ziplining (the rest of your luggage can be left in the office storeroom). There's no electricity so precharge all your batteries and devices. And book well ahead, before you leave home, as the Gibbon Experience gets jammed up in high season.
4Sleeping
Daauw HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9041296; www.projectkajsiablaos.org; r 100,000-140,000K)S
Daauw Homestay is run by lovely Hmong folk, and your stay in a cosy bungalow near the heart of town enables you to contribute something to women's empowerment and minority rights, as this place is a grassroots initiative run by Project Kajsiab. Simple rooms come with sunset views, hammock, balcony and private bathroom.
BAP GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; r 60,000-130,000K;; a)
Run by English-speaking Mrs Changpeng, trusty BAP has 16 rooms, some with fan or air-con and private bathroom. There are four newish ones that merit a mention for their colourful quilts, wood accents, TVs and sunset views over the Mekong, particularly rooms 108 and 109. The restaurant (mains 15,000K to 35,000K) is also popular for its fried-rice dishes, pasta and hearty breakfasts.
Kaupjai GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55683164; r with fan/air-con 100,000/120,000K; paW)
Clean, simple rooms with private bathrooms in a relatively new guesthouse with a friendly owner. Fan rooms downstairs, air-con ones upstairs. Near the centre, it's also nice and quiet.
Oudomphone Guesthouse 2GUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55683134, 084-211308; r with fan/air-con 80,000/120,000K; aW)
Clean and central, these digs have a pleasant breakfast cafe and spacious nondescript rooms with bathrooms. While nothing spectacular it's one of the slightly better options in town.
Gateway Villa HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-212180; [email protected]; Th Saykhong; r with air-con 140,000K; aW)
Close to the boat landing, Gateway Villa has tastefully furnished rooms with hardwood floors, wicker chairs, TVs and contemporary-looking linen. Some rooms are more prettified than others. You'll get a good night's sleep, an OK breakfast, and the English-speaking owner is helpful. Patchy internet.
Sabaydee Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-212252; Th Saykhong; r incl breakfast 90,000-130,000K; aiW)
Sabaydee has unfailingly clean rooms with comfy beds, TVs, fans and en suites. Decked in bright colours and pleasant furnishings, some overlook the river. There's also a nice communal area with internet access. Bathrooms are the basic, flood-the-entire-floor type. Air-con is a real blessing.
Riverside Houayxay HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-1211064; [email protected]; r i
ncl breakfast from US$25; W)
Located just off the main strip and overlooking the mighty Mekong, this is the most upmarket hotel in the centre of town. Rooms are spacious though bathrooms could do with a more thorough clean. Hot water is on tap, plus there's satellite TV and a minibar.
Phonevichith Guesthouse & RestaurantGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-211765; http://houayxairiverside.com; Ban Khonekeo; r US$45; aW)
Colourful fabrics, fans and kitschy lamps add a little character to the smart rooms, which come with piping-hot showers and air-con. A new wing offers the smartest beds in town, which are verging on the 'boutique hotel'. The main attractions are the Mekong perch and handy proximity to the slowboat landing. Some building was underway here at the time of writing.
5Eating & Drinking
DaauwLAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.projectkajsiablaos.org; mains 30,000-50,000K; h6-10pm; v)
The friendliest vibe in town: soak up the sunset view on its chill-out terrace decked in low cushions and an open-pit fire, and choose from freshly prepared organic Hmong food, wood-fired pizza, plenty of vegetarian options, or whole barbecued Mekong fish or chicken. Linger for laojitos if there's a crowd – a mojito made with lòw-lów.
Tavendeng RestaurantLAOTIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 25,000-80,000K; h7am-11pm)
Predominantly aimed at Thai tourists, this large wooden dining complex features live music and exotic foods such as frog and fried crocodile.
Riverview CafeLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; meals 40,000K; h6.30am-11pm; W)
With its rattan ceiling dramatically on the verge of collapse and the thirsty walls peeling, Riverview Cafe (aka Muang Ner) might not look like much, but notice it's always full, and stand and catch the aromas from the kitchen, and in no time you'll be tucking into wood-fired pizzas, burgers, stir-fries, soup noodles and very zestful láhp.
It's next door to the Gibbon Experience Office; stock up on a sandwich to take with you to the jungle.
Riverside RestaurantLAOTIAN, THAI$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; mains 45,000K; h7am-11pm; W)
The Mekong terrace here offers a great vantage point from which to watch the boats shuttling to and from Thailand. The menu has a wide range of Thai and Lao food, including soups, stir-fries and curries, plus Western breakfasts.
Bar HowBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; h6.30am-11pm; W)
Decked in old muskets and rice-paddy hats, Bar How is darkly atmospheric. By night a row of sinister-looking homemade lòw-lów (rice wine), infused with everything from blueberry to lychee, catches the low light and resembles a Victorian apothecary. It also serves pasta, steak, láhp and spring rolls (mains 30,000K to 45,000K). However, the service is very slack – you may have to seek out staff.
8Information
Internet Access
Yon Computer Internet Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; per hour 10,000K; h9am-9pm) Decent connection with Skype. Also fixes laptops.
Money
BCEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Has a 24-hour ATM, exchange facility and Western Union.
Lao Development Bank Exchange Booth ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-5pm) Handy booth right beside the pedestrian immigration window. Most major currencies exchanged into kip. US-dollar bills must be dated 2006 or later.
Post
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri) Also contains a telephone office (open from 8am to 10pm).
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-211162; Th Saykhong; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Has free tourist maps of the town and some suggestions for excursions around the province.
8Getting There & Away
For years, streams of Luang Prabang–bound travellers have piled into Huay Xai and jumped straight onboard a boat for the memorable descent of the Mekong. Today, improving roads mean an ever-increasing proportion opt instead for the overnight bus. But while slightly cheaper than the slowboat, it's far less social, less attractive and, at around 15 hours of travel, leaves most travellers exhausted on arrival.
Air
Huay Xai's airport is oddly perched on a hillside off the city bypass, 1.5km northwest of the bus station. Lao Skyway flies six days per week (except Thursday) to/from Vientiane for 759,000K.
Boat
Slowboats to Pak Beng & Luang Prabang
Slowboats ( GOOGLE MAP ) currently depart from Huay Xai at 11am daily. Purchase tickets at the slowboat ticket booth ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-211659) for Pak Beng (110,000K, one day) or Luang Prabang (220,000K not including accommodation, two days). Sales start at 8am on the day of travel. Avoid buying a ticket from a travel company – you'll get an overpriced tuk-tuk transfer to the pier and then have to sit around awaiting departure.
'Seats' are typically uncomfortable wooden benches for which you'll value the expenditure of 10,000K on a cushion (sold at many an agency in town). Some boats also have a number of more comfy airliner-style seats. If the boat operators try to cram on too many passengers (over 70 or so), a tactic that really works is for later arrivals to simply refuse to get aboard until a second boat is provided.
'Luxury' Slow Boats
To do the two-day river journey to Luang Prabang in more comfort, a popular alternative is the stylish 40-seat Luang Say Cruise ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55090718, 071-252553; www.luangsay.com; per person US$379-666, single supplement from US$67; h8am-3pm). Packages include meals, guides, visits en route and a night's accommodation at the lovely Luang Say Lodge in Pak Beng. Departures are three or four times weekly in peak season, with prices varying according to season. There's no service at all in June or when the Mekong is too low.
Another, more affordable option is the newer Shompoo Cruise ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-213189, 020-59305555; www.shompoocruise.com; per person with/without accommodation from US$97/118). This is a tastefully upgraded boat that heads downstream Monday, Wednesday and Friday and upstream on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. It includes two lunches and a dinner in Pak Beng. It has accommodation but tickets can be sold without, leaving travellers free to select their own place to stay.
With some patience a small group could charter their own slowboat, starting from around US$750 (highly negotiable).
Speedboats & Longboats
The speedboat landing (%084-211457; Rte 3, 200m beyond Km 202) is directly beneath Wat Thadsuvanna Phakham, 3km south of town. Six-passenger speedboats (héua wái) zip thrillingly but dangerously and with great physical discomfort to Pak Beng (190,000/1,140,000K per person/boat, three hours) and Luang Prabang (320,000/1,920,000K, seven hours including lunch stop), typically departing around 8am.
Due to a section of the Nam Tha (Tha River) being dammed it's no longer possible to catch a boat all the way up to Luang Namtha. From Ban Phaeng, you'll have eight hours of puttering upriver to Na Lae, where you'll be picked up and driven on to Luang Namtha. Contact Forest Retreat Laos in Luang Namtha, which organises guides, transfers and prearrange your boat. The charter costs US$500 for two (US$250 per person); it's cheaper per head the more of you go.
Bus & Sŏrngtăaou
Note that Huay Xai–bound buses are usually marked 'Borkeo'. The bus station is 5km east of town. Buses to Luang Prabang (120,000K, 14 to 17 hours) depart at 10am and 4pm; for Luang Namtha (60,000K) they leave at 9am and 12.30pm; for Udomxai (90,000K, nine hours) there is one at 9.30am. For Vientiane (230,000K, 25 hours) catch the 11.30am. There is also a bus to Mengla (120,000K) at 8.30am.
Travel-agency minibuses to Luang Namtha leave from central Huay Xai at around 9am (100,000K) but still arrive at Namtha's inconveniently out-of-town bus station.
Sŏrngtăaou ( GOOGLE MAP ) to Tonpheung (40,000K) leave when full from beside the main market, very occasionally continuing to Muang Mom.
GETTING TO THAILAND: HUAY XAI (HOKSAY) TO CHIANG KHONG
Getting to the border Since the completion of the T
hai-Lao Friendship Bridge 4 at the Huay Xai/Chiang Khong border crossing in late 2013, the former ferry-boat crossing is for locals only.
Tuk-tuks cost about 80B per person to the immigration post.
At the border A bus (20B) crosses the bridge. A 15-day Thai visa waiver is automatically granted when entering Thailand. Arriving in Chiang Khong, pay the 30B port fee and catch a 30B tuk-tuk to take you to the bus station. The nearest ATM on the Thai side is 2km south.
Moving on Many travellers leave Huay Xai bound for Chiang Rai (65B, 2½ hours), with buses typically departing from Chiang Khong's bus station every hour from 6am to 5pm. Greenbus (%in Thailand 0066 5365 5732; www.greenbusthailand.com) has services to Chiang Mai at 6am, 9am and 11.40am. Several overnight buses for Bangkok (500B to 750B, 10 hours) leave at 3pm and 3.30pm.
Around Huay Xai
Souvannakhomkham ເມືອງເກົ່າສຸວັນນະໂຄມຄຳ
In a bend of the Mekong lie the scattered ruins of Souvannakhomkham, an ancient city site refounded in the 1560s by Lan Xang king Sai Setthathirat. Today, all you'll see are a few brick piles that were once stupas plus a couple of crumbling Buddha statues dotted about an expanse of fields. The greatest concentration of sites lies 900m off the lane between Ban Don That and Ban Hanjin. The setting amid towering flame trees is quietly magical.