Author: Lonely Planet
Category: Nonfiction
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Yoga
Luang Prabang YogaYOGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.luangprabangyoga.org; classes 1/1½hr 40,000/60,000K; hclasses usually at 7.30am & 5pm)
Slow down, unwind and sync your spirit to the city’s relaxed vibe with yoga classes taught at serene locations, from lush riverside garden decks at Utopia, to rooftop sunset views. The city’s yoga cooperative keeps up-to-date information on classes and venues on its website. In our experience this is a well-run network of qualified teachers. All levels welcome.
Luang Prabang Yoga also runs relaxing three-day yoga retreats at the delicious Mandala Ou Resort in Nong Khiaw. See www.laosyogaretreats.com
Massages & Sauna
Lao Red CrossMASSAGE, SPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253448; Th Wisunarat; sauna 15,000K, 1hr traditional/aromatherapy massage 50,000/80,000K; h7am-10.30pm)S
Recently renovated, this traditional blue Lao house was the original place to come for a sauna and massage before all the fancy ones arrived. It might be no frills, but well-trained staff give first-rate massages and there's a terrific sauna infused with medicinal plants that will clear your respiratory system like mentholated Drano! Now with air-con.
Donations go directly to improving the lives of the poorest villages in Laos.
DhammadaMASSAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212642; www.dhammada.com; Namneua Lane; per hour foot/aromatherapy massage 100,000/160,000K; h11am-11pm)
One of the best in town. A stylish rustic place beside a meditative lotus pond. As ever with massage it depends on who you get and how enlivened they are, so Dhammada has both strong and weak reviews. We personally enjoyed it. Run by Kranchit, it's chilled, clean and restful.
River Cruises
Mekong River CruisesBOATING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254768, 030-78600017; www.cruisemekong.com; 22/2 Th Sakkarin, Ban Xieng Thong; tours per person incl flights to/from Bangkok US$1650-2980)
Mekong River Cruises and its gorgeous boat, the Mekong Explorer, offer an upmarket way to explore the Mekong River in Isan. Its weeklong voyages from Ubon Ratchathani to Nong Khai sail November to March, though trip length and other logistics may change with the river's seasonal variations (eg from April to October the cruise starts and ends in Nakhon Phanom).
Apart from sightseeing on the deck and an onboard massage, there are numerous onshore excursions. You can book through Thai Drem Tours (%043 332113; www.thaidreamtours.com) and Isan Explorer (%085 354 9165; www.isanexplorer.com) in Khon Kaen.
Shompoo CruiseBOATING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-213190; www.shompoocruise.com; Th Khem Khong; cruise incl breakfast & 2 lunches US$110)
An excellent way to see the Mekong in style from a comfortable longboat, and less expensive than other operators offering the same trip, Shompoo runs two-day cruises between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. Departs from the Xieng Thong Jetty.
Luang Say CruiseBOATING
(Mekong Cruises; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254768; www.luangsay.com; 50/4 Th Sakkarin; cruise US$362-490; h9.30am-9.30pm)
The most luxurious way to travel the Mekong on two-day trips to/from Huay Xai on the Thai border. Its boats are stunning romantic affairs with wood accents and great service. Prices depend on the season. Departs from the Xieng Thong Jetty.
Banana Boat LaosBOATING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-260654; www.bananaboatlaos.com; Ma Te Sai, Th Sisavangvong)
Picking up good reviews for their combo trips such as Pak Ou Caves and Kuang Si waterfalls, Sunset Cruise and Temple View, or, most popular, Kuang Si Sun Bear Rescue Area (for which you'll pay US$45 per person for a couple, less if there more of you). Comfortable boat; friendly staff with limited English.
CCourses
oTamarindCOOKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-77770484; www.tamarindlaos.com; Ban Wat Nong; full-day/evening course 285,000/215,000K)
Join Tamarind at its lakeside pavilion for a day's tuition in the art of Lao cuisine, meeting in the morning at its restaurant before heading to the market for ingredients for classic dishes such as mok pa (steamed fish in banana leaves). Evening classes don't include a market visit.
Ock Pop TokCOURSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212597; www.ockpoptok.com; half-/full-day bamboo-weaving course 240,000/284,000K, Hmong Batik class 480,000/640,000K, 3-day natural dyeing & weaving course 1,584,000K; h8.45am-4pm Mon-Sat)S
Learn to weave your own scarf and textiles or take a half-day bamboo-weaving course at Ock Pop Tok. Teachers are master craftspeople, you get to keep your handiwork and lunch is included. Situated 2km past Phousy market; a free tuk-tuk will pick you up and bring you back.
Bamboo Tree Cooking Class & RestaurantCOOKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22425499; [email protected]; Th Sakkarin; cookery class 250,000K; h9am-10pm)
A respected chef and teacher will teach you how to cook five or six Lao dishes, such as láhp (minced pork salad with shallots and coriander), at Bamboo Tree's spacious and airy restaurant. You'll also receive a cookbook to take home. Classes start at 9am and finish at 2pm. If you're not a student it also makes a great spot for lunch or dinner (mains 40,000K).
TTours
oMotolaoADVENTURE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-54548449; www.motolao.com; Ban Phone Peang Rd; h9am-6pm)
This excellent outfit is one of the country's best motocross tour operators and has terrific two-wheel odysseys exploring authentic Lao life in the boonies that you'd usually be hard-pressed to visit. Top kit and with well-maintained bikes, this outfit is owned by dependable Tiger Trail ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-252655; www.laos-adventures.com; Th Sisavangvong; tours from US$50; h8.30am-9pm). It also rents mountain bikes (per day 50,000K) and Honda 250cc motorbikes (per day US$50).
E-Bus TourBUS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253899; www.laogreengroup.com; tour US$40, child under 10 free; htours morning 8.30am-12.30pm, afternoon 1-5.30pm)
Lao Green Travel's E-Bus takes passengers (up to six) around the city on a guided tour. You'll visit the local market, the Royal Palace and learn about Lao architecture, between exploring Wat Xieng Thong and its quiet backstreets. Pick-up from your hotel is available. Its office is located across from the southern bus station.
White ElephantHIKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254481; www.white-elephant-adventures-laos.com; Th Sisavangvong; h8.30am-9pm)S
White Elephant is hailed for its relationships with remote Hmong and Khamu villages, allowing a deeper insight into their way of life. You can get this on solid two- or three-day trekking and bike tours. Look out for the BMW motorbike and communist flag to find its main office.
Off Road LaosADVENTURE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254695, 020-598144423; www.offroadlaosadventures.com; Th Phommatha; 3-day trips per person for a group of 2 from US$280; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat & Sun)
Offering intrepid motorcycle enthusiasts a chance to really explore a side of Laos they will never get to see by public transport. Using experienced guides, and regularly serviced top-notch Honda 250cc dirt bikes, trips can be designed bespoke depending on your interests and level of confidence. And you can store your heavy luggage at the shop.
LUANG PRABANG FOR CHILDREN
While wats and museums may not seem a recipe for excited children, there are now plenty of attractions in and around Luang Prabang that will get their attention. Children of all ages will love Tat Kuang Si and Tat Sae (ຕາດແຊ 20,000K, child under 8 free; h8am-5.30pm) for the natural swimming pools and ziplines; the former also offers a fascinating glimpse of Asiatic Wild Moon bears in their impressive enclosure. New to Kuang Si is the Kuang Si Butterfly Park (www.facebook.com/laos.kuang.si.butterflypark; adult/child 30,000/15,000K; h10.30am-4.30pm; c) and Green Jungle Flight. Boat trips on the Mekong, such as to Pak Ou Caves, are a nice diversion for budding explorers.
Older children will enjoy the activities on offer around town like cycling or kayaking. The younger ones can spend some time on the playground and zipl
ines at the ABC School ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56920137; per child 20,000K; h3-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun). There are plenty of family-friendly cafes around town, but if it's a swimming pool they crave, then it's probably better to consider accommodation beyond the old town or make for the chilled out La Pistoche during the day.
zFestivals & Events
Luang Prabang Film FestivalFILM
(LPFF; www.lpfilmfest.org; hDec)
At the start of every December, the Luang Prabang Film Festival hand-picks the best new films from 10 Southeast Asian countries, with screens set up alfresco all around the city. Better still it's free.
Pi MaiCULTURAL
(Lao New Year; hApr)
Large numbers of visitors converge on Luang Prabang for this 'water throwing' festival in April. Be careful of your camera getting soaked and prepare to be drenched! Advanced bookings around this time are recommended.
Bun Awk PhansaCULTURAL
(End of the Rains Retreat; hSep/Oct)
Bun Awk Phansa sees boat races on the Nam Khan in September or October. Buddhists send little boats made of banana leaves with lit candles inside downriver by night, chiefly to send the bad luck of last year away, and to also make thanks to Mother Mekong and the sentinel naga (river serpents) who dwell within her watery arms. Pure magic.
BUN PI MAI (LAO NEW YEAR)
In the middle of April, when the dry season reaches its hottest peak, Pi Mai marks the sun's passage from the zodiac sign of Pisces into Aries. The old year's spirit departs and the new one arrives amid a series of celebrations and a frenzy of good-hearted water throwing. Festivities are especially colourful in Luang Prabang where many people dress in traditional clothes for major events, which stretch over seven days.
Transport can be hard to find at this time and hotel occupancy (and prices) will be at a peak, especially in Luang Prabang.
4Sleeping
Thanon Sisavangvong & Around
Bou Pha GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-252405; Th Sisavangvong; r 60,000-100,000K; W)
This takes us back to 1990s Luang Prabang – an old house in the heart of the city with rooms for less than a tenner. The cheapest rooms have a shared bathroom while the more expensive upstairs rooms include a street view. They also sell some very rare antiques in their dimly lit shop.
Paphai Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212752; Th Sisavang Vatthana; r without bathroom 50,000K; i)
Did the owners forget to put the prices up at this rickety old wooden traditional house near the heart of the peninsula? Rooms are fan-cooled, rattan-walled and have padlocks on the doors. It's run by a lovely older couple. There's a nice garden out front, too.
oChang InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-255031; www.burasariheritage.com; Th Sakkarin; r from US$150; aW)
This romantic bijou belle is stunningly tasteful with Indochinese style; think pendulums ticking away on walls covered with vintage Lao B&W photography, slatted wood mother-of-pearl-inlay furniture, rosewood floors, fragrant linen and chandeliers. The air-con units have been boxed in, preserving the conceit that you have travelled back 100 years. A leafy brick-floored garden lies behind.
Pack Luck VillaGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253373; www.packluck.in; Th Thugnaithao; r US$55; aW)
This stunning boutique hotel has an eclectic feel of dark woods, paper lanterns, chrome fans and Persian rugs; by night, subtle lighting picks out flecks of gold leaf on its wine-red walls. Rooms are a little tight, but the three with upper balconies overlook the monks' morning meander. Downstairs is the popular Pack Luck Liquor wine bar.
Khong Kham VillaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212800; off Th Sisavangvong; r US$45; aW)
Head down a side street off Th Sisavangvong and into a courtyard choking on palms to find small but stylish rooms with chess-tiled bathrooms (weak showers), dough-soft beds, reading lamps, flat-screens TVs with cable, safety deposit boxes and communal balconies. In low season you can easily talk the price down.
Oui GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-252374, 020-54349589; r with/without balcony US$35/45; W)
In a peaceful setting at the end of the peninsula facing the Nam Khan, it's so quiet here you can almost hear the breeze. Downstairs rooms are simple wood-ceiling affairs with tile floors, ethnic curtains and swish bathrooms. For an extra 10 bucks you can get an upstairs room with verandah and riverine views.
Phounsab GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212975; www.phoun-thavy-sab.jimdo.com; Th Sisavangvong; r US$30-40; aW)
Slap-bang in the heart of the old-city's commercial centre, the Phounsab's newer rooms are set back off a narrow courtyard and the great-value front ones are big and breezy with wooden trim and polished floorboards. Silent air-con that won't keep you awake, private balconies and en suite, helpful management, plus the night market begins almost outside your front door.
Villa SenesoukHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212074; www.luangphabang.com/senesouk; Th Sakkarin; r US$40-60; aW)
The morning monks' procession passes right outside the cheaper rooms. The upper ones are brighter and share a balcony with a wat view. Wood-panelled rooms have full mod cons, with the US$40 options offering additional space. Rooms out back are more expensive.
Magic M GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-98837237; off Th Sakkarin; r incl breakfast US$45; W)
Run by a friendly Chinese lady, these wood-floored rooms have carriage lamps on the walls, verandah, private bathroom and flat-screen TV. Down a quiet lane at the end of the peninsula.
Sackarinh Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254512; [email protected]; Th Sisavangvong; r 200,000-250,000K; aW)
Easily missed down a side alley off the main street, this simple belle is something of a Tardis, with 14 scrupulously clean, spacious rooms with little interior decor but clean linen and comfy beds. Central, friendly and close to the action, this is a great place for travellers watching their budget.
Auberge les 3 NagasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253888; www.3-nagas.com; Th Sakkarin; r from US$200; aiW)
Luang Prabang style was minted at this boutique hotel, bookended by mango trees and a burgundy 1950s Mercedes. The 100-year-old Lao-style building brims with old-world atmosphere and has recently been revamped under new management. Palatial suites sport sink-to-sleep four-poster beds, tanned-wood bathrooms and a modern Asian design fusing colonial-era French roots. The restaurant serves Lao-only food in a palm-shaded terrace.
Villa SantiHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-252157; www.villasantihotel.com; Th Sakkarin; r US$128-288; aWs)
This striking old royal building has three very different personalities. The original 19th-century villa, once home to King Sisavang Vong's wife, has just six vast 'royal' suites, plus an upstairs breakfast room with an enviable road-view terrace. The standard rooms are in a central annexe behind, while the majority are in a well-appointed 'resort', 5km south of town.
Victoria Khoum Xiengthong GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212906; www.khoumxiengthong.com; Th Sisalernsak; r US$90; aW)
So close to Wat Xieng Thong you can hear the resonance of the prayer gong floating across its ornamental gardens bedecked in tea light. There's a fragrant whiff of Indo-chic and its stone-floored, white-walled rooms enjoy golden tapestries and chrome fans. Rooms 2 (lower floor) and 5 (upper floor) are vast and include four-poster beds and stylish modern en suite.
WORTH A TRIP
RESORT STAYS
Hillside ResortRESORT$$
(%030-5717342; www.hillsidelaos.com; r US$70-90; aWs)
Twelve kilometres south of Luang Prabang, Hillside Resort has eight bungalows and a family unit, plus plenty of activities on tap, including board games, volleyball, petang (Lao version of pétanque)
and a swimming pool. Top set-up and exceptional value at these prices.
Lao Spirit ResortRESORT$$
(%030-5140111; www.lao-spirit.com; r US$125-160)
Lao Spirit is on the banks of the river 13km east of Luang Prabang and has a convivial collection of thatched cottages on sturdy brick stilts. Interiors have antique furniture and rosewood floors and the views are stunning. Trekking and kayaking available.
Zen Namkhan ResortRESORT$$$
(%030-5142411; www.zennamkhanresort.com; r from US$69-89; aWs)
Canadian-owned Zen Namkhan, 13km southeast of Luang Prabang, takes the exclusive-boutique-hotel approach. Expansive, stylishly minimalist bungalows enjoy wide-view balconies and inside-outside showers. Service is highly attentive. The spring-fed swimming pool is ecofriendly.
Nam Khan Riverfront
1989 GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-91701061; [email protected]; off Th Phommatha; dm/r US$19/25; W)
This delightful boho joint is run by a lovely Chinese lady. There's a patio terrace to chill in, and the reception is scattered with Tibetan photos and travel memorabilia. Choose from two twin rooms or a double, and three well-spaced dorms.