Author: Lonely Planet
Category: Nonfiction
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Meune Na Backpacker HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-260851; Th Phetsarath; dm 30,000K, r from 60,000K; W)
A real budget crash pad close to the old Nam Khan bridge, the dorms here only have five beds to a room, making it a little less crowded than some of the other backpacker hostels around town. There's a traditional costume place next door if you fancy a souvenir photo decked out in Lao wedding clothes.
Bel Air Boutique ResortRESORT$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254699; www.lebelairhotels.com; r from US$60; aW)
Bel Air's thatched cottages might look rustic from the outside, but inside it's all modern and tastefully fitted out, including curtained display-baths and sunset-facing private balconies. Standard rooms are large and similarly stylish in a complex that's widely spaced amid palm trees and beautifully manicured lawns. Note that it is on the opposite side of the Nam Khan.
Luang Prabang Paradise ResortHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %071-213103; www.luangprabangparadiseresort.com; 13 North Rd, Ban Meuang Nga; r US$75; aWs)
Near the Nam Khan, but a long way out of town over the new bridge, this is a relaxing place to stay for those who want to get away from it all. Sun-filled bungalows are nicely finished with polished teak floors and colourful bed rugs and bathroom are huge. Outside there's a palm-surrounded swimming pool.
oThe ApsaraBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254252; www.theapsara.com; Th Kingkitsarat; standard/superior r incl breakfast US$81/123; aW)
Apsara commands fine views of the sleepy Nam Khan. Its Indochinese lobby is peppered with silk lanterns and the bar springs from an old classic film, while each of the open-plan rooms is individually designed. From its turquoise walls to its coloured glass buddhas, everything about this place screams style. The restaurant and bar are romantic affairs best enjoyed at night.
GIVING SOMETHING BACK
There are several ways in which travellers can give back to the local community in Luang Prabang.
Big Brother Mouse (BBM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254937; www.bigbrothermouse.com; Th Phayaluangmeungchan; h9-11am & 5-7pm) Travellers can buy books here to distribute to local children. As well as promoting literacy, the idea is that it's more beneficial for visitors to hand out books than candy.
Luang Prabang Library ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254813; www.communitylearninginternational.org; Th Sisavangvong; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun) Collects donations to provide local books for a mobile library that sails to remote villages.
Children's Cultural Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253732; www.cccluangprabang.weebly.com; Th Sisavangvong; h4-5pm Tue-Fri, 8-11.30am & 2-4pm Sat) Seeks donations of virtually anything recyclable or resalable to provide after-school activities for kids.
Lao Red Cross Travellers can donate used, washed clothing or even give blood, a precious commodity in Laos as anywhere.
Mekong Riverfront & Around
Boungnasouk GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212749; 1/3 Th Khem Kong; r US$10; W)
This cheap family-run guesthouse has an enticing location down on the Mekong riverfront. There are just six rooms here, three twins and three doubles, but no river views, as the family have bagged those. It can be noisy here at night.
Ammata Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212175; [email protected]; Ban Wat Nong; r US$30-40; aW)
A friendly, family-run place, this attractively timbered guesthouse has a low-key ambience, spotless and spacious rooms with polished wood interiors, and renovated bathrooms. Most rooms are upstairs, running off a shared and shaded balcony. Management is friendly and you're perfectly located to watch the morning alms procession pass by without all the snapping cameras.
Muang Lao Riverside VillaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-252219; www.xandriahotels.com; Th Khem Khong; r US$25-45; aW)
Set in a charming wooden property overlooking the Mekong, these small rooms are good value given the location, and include white quilts decked in Hmong bed runners, parquet floors, air-con, flat-screen TV, minibar, fridge, wardrobe and rain showers. A few rooms have balcony views over the river. Hot-water shower facilities are included in the en suites.
Kongsavath GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212994; www.khongsavath.com; Th Khem Khong; r US$50-60; aW)
This lovely, vine-choked villa has wood-panelled rooms reminiscent of a captain's bunk in an old schooner. Boasting a great Mekong-front location, the family suite overlooking the river is the best. Great breakfasts and very helpful management make this a safe choice for families and couples alike.
Villa ChampaGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253555, 071-260252; www.villachampa.com; Th Sisavang Vatthana; s/d US$35/49, superior r US$56; aW)
This tastefully renovated traditional house has a prime location between the Mekong River and the old temple district. The nine rooms include air-con, TV and minibar, plus some more traditional Laotian textiles to complete the picture. Fresh and airy, this is a good peninsula option.
Luang Prabang River LodgeHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253314; www.luang-prabang-river-lodge.com; Th Khem Khong; r US$40-60; aW)
This shuttered colonial-era corner house has an alluring patio draped in floral vines and framed by a lychgate and old bomb casings. Interiors have clean lines and restrained decor, with wood floors, white walls and cable TV. A few rooms offer Mekong views. It's one of a few places in town that welcomes pets.
Villa ChitdaraGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254949; www.villachitdara.com; Th Khounswa; r from US$55; aW)
The monks' alms procession at dawn passes directly by Villa Chitdara, set amid a verdant garden in the heart of the old town. It's a charming, house-proud base to explore the peninsula. Rooms include TVs, hot water and safes. Breakfast is pleasant. The friendly owners speak eloquent French and are warmth personified.
En Provence GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212035, 071-212380; r incl breakfast 414,000K; aW)
At the peaceful end of the peninsula, this handsome Lao villa is run by a pleasant Frenchman and has lemon-hued rooms with flat-screen TVs, dark-wood floors and furniture, and immaculate bathrooms with roomy bath. The Mekong River views…formidable!
Sala PrabangHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254087, 071-252460; www.salalao.com; 102/6 Th Khem Khong; r incl breakfast US$90-155; aW)
Housed in an old French villa and another seven buildings closely joined together, Sala's rooms have lime-washed walls, guacamole-coloured linen and hardwood floors, and are separated from the bathrooms by Japanese-style screens. There are many variations of room size so make sure you shop around. Beautiful throughout, this is a tasteful option.
Xiengthong PalaceHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-213200; www.xiengthongpalace.com; Th Khem Khong; r US$200-500; aiWs)
This former royal residence has a striking setting overlooking the Mekong River next to Wat Xieng Thong. The 26 rooms are luxuriously appointed and include open-plan Mekong suites with grandstand views and two-storey suites with their own private plunge pools and lounges.
Ban Hoxieng
Phonemaly GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253504; Th Hoxieng; r from 100,000K; aW)
Close to the night market, this pair of traditionally styled wooden houses has very much the feel of a real home yet all the conveniences of a well-run guesthouse. The best timber-clad rooms are upstairs. Obliging family owners ensure a free supply of bananas, coffee and water refills. Decent air-con and wi-fi.
Sayo Naga GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212484, 071-252614; www.sayoguesthouse.com; Th Wat That; r US$35-80; W)
Guarded by naga (river serpents) this serene white, green-shuttered house boasts atmospheric rooms with polished wood floors, bathroom, mozzie nets, fine furniture and balcony. Add to this bedside lamps and Hmong thr
ows and it seems a fair steal. There are also small rooms in a separate block at the back of the garden – skip these and go for the house. Romantic and well located near the night market.
Villa PumalinBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212777; www.villapumalin.com; Th Hoxieng; r incl breakfast US$55-75; aW)
Rosewood steps lead across a tiny carp pool on the way up to this hotel, which has superbly finished rooms that combine stylish bathroom fittings with semi-traditional woodwork interiors and top-quality linens. The best room (201) has a private balcony with glimpses of the Mekong. For more privacy and better views, grab a room upstairs.
Manichan GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56920137; www.manichanguesthouse.com; off Th Khem Khong; r with/without private bathroom US$37/27; aW)
Run by Andy and Venus, Manichan is big on personality and warmth, with air-con rooms and terrific breakfasts – crêpes, homemade jams and wholemeal bread, fruit salads and yoghurt. Upper rooms share a bathroom worthy of a boutique hotel, plus a wide terrace with Phu Si views, while ground-floor rooms have en suite bathrooms with screened showers.
Ban Lao HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-252078; www.banlaohotel.com; Th Thammamikalath, Ban Mano; r incl breakfast US$25-75; aiW)
Tasteful, comfortable rooms set behind a late-colonial-era mansion that's 'hollowed out' so that you can see the garden's palms and jackfruit trees while checking in. Deluxe rooms come on sturdy stilts over fountain walls and swing seats. Breakfast is served in a large pavilion perched over a pond. It's peaceful and good value.
oAmantakaLUXURY HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-860333; www.amanresorts.com; Th Kitsarat; ste from US$1000; aWs)
You can imagine Graham Greene writing under a wood-blade fan in the wicker-accented restaurant of this beautifully renovated French colonial-era building. Flanked by manicured lawns, a centrepiece jade swimming pool and dreamy spa and gym, suites here are capacious, with living room, four-poster beds and most feature a private pool in their back garden. Surely Luang Prabang's finest hotel?
Substantial discounts are available in the low season.
oSatri HouseHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253491; www.satrihouse.com; off Th Phothisarath; r US$192-384; aWs)
This beautiful villa, once the former house of the Lao Red Prince, has stunning rooms with huge beds, fine furniture and a decorative flair unmatched by any other boutique in the city. Imagine pathways through lush gardens lit by statues of Indian gods, ornamental lily pools, a stunning jade swimming pool and a maze of Indo-chic corridors. The spa is terrific.
oSofitel Luang PrabangSPA HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-260777; www.accorhotels.com; r from US$250; aWs)
This former governor’s residence hides a paradise of mature palms and exotic flowers within its high walls, the highlight of which is a stunning cherry-tiled swimming pool. In a fan-cooled pavilion the Governor's Grill turns out terrific Western food, and there's also a world-class spa. Rooms are huge, with battleship-grey walls, fine art and walk-in showers. It's superb.
Le Sen Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-261661; www.lesenhotel.com; 113 Th Manomai; r US$95-160; aiWs)
This stylish boutique hotel southwest of the town is exceptional value when compared with some of the heritage hotels crammed into the old quarter. Rooms are well appointed with modish bathrooms and flat-screen TVs, and all face the inviting central swimming pool and Jacuzzi. Extra touches include a well-equipped gym and free use of bicycles. Staff are super friendly and the place is well organised.
Maison DalabuaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-255588; www.maison-dalabua.com; Th Phothisarat, Ban That Luang; r US$75-100; aW)
Set in spacious grounds that include a vast pond dotted with water lilies, Maison Dalabua is a real hideaway. The 15 rooms are in an attractive building and include flat-screen TVs and generously proportioned beds, choice furnishings and a sense of space. More expensive rooms include a bathtub.
South of Phu Si
Villa SayadaHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254872; www.villa-shayada-laos.com; Th Phommatha; r 120,000-200,000K; aW)
Opposite Wat Visoun, this welcoming nine-room mini-hotel run by lovely Mr Takashi, a gentle Japanese man who welcomes you with a glass of rum, has generously sized cream and cloud-white rooms, with hung fabrics, handmade lamps and decent hot showers. There are small private balconies with pleasant views.
Khounsavanh GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212297; Ban Thongchaleum; dm from 48,000K, r 80,000-140,000K, without bathroom 60,000K; aWs)
Khounsavanh sits on a quiet lane near Dara Market. There's a choice of air-conditioned en suite rooms with views of Phu Si's summit temple, as well as dorms (one four-berth female only, and two mixed). While toilets are lamentably dirty, on the plus side there's a great swimming pool and it's a good place to meet other travellers.
oLa Résidence Phou VaoLUXURY HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212530; www.belmond.com/la-residence-phou-vao-luang-prabang; r incl breakfast from US$492; aiWs)
With its stunning hilltop grounds, seamless service and stylish wood rooms, Luang Prabang's first luxury hotel minted revivalist Indo-chic. The infinity pool reflects distant Phu Si and is flanked by a top-notch Franco-Lao restaurant. The Mekong Spa is spectacular and has won several global awards. No other hotel has such a spectacular view of the city and mountains. Bliss!
Free use of bikes and free limo shuttle to the city five minutes away.
Luang Say ResidenceLUXURY HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-260891; www.luangsayresidence.com; Ban Phonepheng; ste incl breakfast from US$170; aiWs)
Conjuring the colonial-era heyday of Luang Prabang, this sophisticated all-suite hotel consists of six French-accented buildings set amid verdant gardens a short tuk-tuk ride southwest of the city. Furnishings are sumptuous and there's an inviting swimming pool. The Belle Epoque Restaurant is one of the top dining destinations in town; eat on the terrace overlooking a lush garden.
5Eating
After the privations of the more remote areas in Laos your stomach will be turning cartwheels at the sheer choice and fine execution of what's on offer here. Aside from some very fine Lao restaurants, the gastro scene is largely French. Luang Prabang also has a terrific cafe scene, with bakeries at every turn.
Archetypal dishes include ubiquitous local sausages and a soup-stew called orlam (áw lám) made with meat, mushrooms and eggplant with special bitter-spicy wood chips added for flavouring (don't swallow them!). A great local snack is kai Ъâan (Mekong riverweed).
Food markets are great for fresh fruit, while self-caterers should check out the morning market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h5.30am-4pm Sat-Mon).
Thanon Sisavongvong & Around
oLe BannetonBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sakkarin; meals 20,000-40,000K; h6.30am-6pm; aW)
It's the softness of the melt-in-your-mouth pastry that keeps us coming back to our favourite bakery in Luang Prabang, which serves pain au chocolat (chocolate croissants), pizza, terrine, baguette sandwiches, salads, crêpes and more. The ceiling is a maze of arabesques, there's a cool fan at every turn, and the white walls are offset by a passing blur of orange outside – monks from the monastery opposite.
Le Café Ban Vat SeneFRENCH$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsene; Th Sakkarin; mains 50,000-75,000K; h7.30am-10pm; aW)
Luang Prabang's most stylish stop for afternoon tea and scones. Fans whirr above a serenely lit bar, while the dessert cabinet purrs at you like a calorific temptress – think éclairs, lemon tart and raspberry mousse. Beef steak, salads, pizza, and grilled chicken and perch are also on the menu. Eat outside or within the cool interior.
Xieng Thong Noodle-ShopLAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sakkarin; noodle soup 20,000K;
h7am-2pm)
The best kòw Ъęeak sèn (round rice noodles served in a broth with pieces of chicken or deep-fried crispy pork belly) in town is served from an entirely unexotic shopfront well up the peninsula. It usually runs out by 2pm.
oCoconut GardenLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-252482; www.elephant-restau.com/coconutgarden; Th Sisavangvong; meals 35,000-150,000K, set menu 100,000K; h8am-11pm; Wv)
An excellent vegetarian set menu includes five top-quality Lao dishes, allowing a single diner to create the subtle palate of flavours that you'd normally only get from a feast with many people. Coconut Garden has front and rear yards, and is a great spot for lunch or dinner. International favourites are also available.
Café TouiFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafetoui.com; Th Sisavang Vatthana; mains 50,000-80,000K; h7am-10pm; Wv)
Elegant and bijou, candlelit Café Toui is a delight of Lao cuisine. Gold-stencilled ox-blood walls, great service and an Asian fusion menu with standout dishes such as mok pa (steamed fish wrapped in banana leaves) and zingy láhp, plus an inviting sampler menu.