Author: Lonely Planet
Category: Nonfiction
Go to read content：https://onlinereadfreenovel.com/lonely-planet/page,8,460391-lonely_planet_laos.html
TangorFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-260761; www.letangor.com; Th Sisavangvong; mains 40,000-80,000K; h11am-10pm; W)
Atmospheric with its low-lit interior of dark woods and tangerine-coloured walls peppered with old travel posters, Tangor boasts a menu of beautifully crafted fusion food, blending the best of seasonal Lao produce with French cuisine. Dishes include beef tenderloin, pork filet mignon and tapas and there's a decent wine selection. Finish it off with a Cuban cigar.
Nam Khan Riverfront & Around
oDyen SabaiLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55104817; http://dyensabairestaurant.wordpress.com; Ban Phan Luang; mains 20,000-35,000K; h8am-11pm; W)
One of Luang Prabang's top destinations for fabulous Lao food. The eggplant dip and fried Mekong riverweed are as good as anywhere. Most seating is on recliner cushions in rustic open-sided pavilions. It's a short stroll across the Nam Khan bamboo bridge in the dry season or a free boat ride at other times. Two-for-one cocktails between noon and 7pm.
Rosella FusionFUSION$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/rosellafusion; Th Kingkitsarat; mains 35,000K; h9am-10.30pm)
Established by a former Amantaka bartender, this riverside restaurant offers an innovative selection of affordable fusion flavours. The owner is particularly proud of his bargain cocktails, so consider dropping by for a sundowner before dinner. Try the steak and pepper sauce.
Joma Bakery CafeBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.joma.biz; Th Kingkitsarat; mains 40,000K; h7am-9pm; aW)
Joma's second branch in Luang Prabang has the usual tempting offering of sorbets, fruit salad, cookies, bespoke subs and fair-trade coffee. Eat in the cosy wood-accented interior, or on the fan-cooled terrace with sumptuous views of the Nam Khan.
oTamarindLAOTIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-213128; www.tamarindlaos.com; Th Kingkitsarat; mains 40,000K, set dinner 100,000-150,000K; h11am-10pm; W)
On the banks of the Nam Khan, mint-green Tamarind has created its very own strain of 'Mod Lao' cuisine. The à la carte menu boasts delicious sampling platters with bamboo dip, stuffed lemongrass and meuyang (DIY parcels of noodles, herbs, fish and chilli pastes, and vegetables). There's also buffalo láhp and Luang Prabang sausage. Deservedly popular.
oThe ApsaraFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254670; www.theapsara.com; Apsara Hotel, Th Kingkitsarat; mains 60,000-110,000K; h7am-10pm; W)
This chic eatery fronting the Nam Khan offers fusion cuisine blending East and West. Choose from buffalo steak, stuffed panin fish to share, or braised pork belly for a main. Save some space for the divine desserts such as poached nashi pear in lime and ginger syrup served with coconut ice cream and a Lao poppadom.
Couleur CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254694; Th Kingkitsarat; mains 40,000-100,000K; h11am-10pm; aW)
Well regarded by long-term residents, Couleur Cafe has relocated to the Nam Khan side of the peninsula but continues to serve French-accented and creatively presented Laotian cuisine. Menu highlights include chicken casserole with ginger and lemongrass, and duck breast with honey and mango chutney. Stylish and relaxing.
Mekong Riverfront & Around
Riverside Barbecue RestaurantBARBECUE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Khem Khong; all you can eat 60,000K; h5-11pm)
Tabletop sìn daat (Lao hotpot barbecue) is pretty popular in Luang Prabang and this lively Mekong riverfront restaurant may just be the most popular of all. Hygiene can be patchy so make sure you cook your shrimp, beef or chicken thoroughly.
Big Tree CafeKOREAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bigtreecafe.com; Th Khem Khong; mains 35,000-50,000K; h9am-9pm; Wv)
Located in a stunning wooden house, Big Tree Cafe's Korean food is the best in the city and it's always packed with Koreans, as well as aesthetes who come to see photographer Adri Berger's work in the gallery upstairs. Eat inside or out on the terrace in the leafy, restful garden. There's also a choice of Western and Japanese dishes.
L'Elephant RestaurantFRENCH$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.elephant-restau.com; Ban Wat Nong; mains 80,000-250,000K; h11.30am-10pm; a)
L'Elephant serves arguably the most sophisticated cuisine in the city in a renovated villa with wooden floors, stucco pillars, stencilled ochre walls and bags of atmosphere. The Menu du Chasseur (240,000K) includes terrines, soups, duck breast and other Gallic specialities. The buffalo steak tartare is amazing.
Royal Palace Museum & Ban Hoxieng
Joma Bakery CafeBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.joma.biz; Th Chao Fa Ngum; mains 35,000K; h7am-9pm; aW)
This haven of cool with comfy chairs and a contemporary vibe is one of the city's busiest bakeries. It offers delectable comfort food in the form of soups, salads, bagels, creatives coffees and wholesome shakes. Oh, and mocha, coconut, carrot, chocolate, black forest and lemon cake! There's a second branch overlooking the Nam Khan.
Night Food StallsLAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6-10pm; v)
Food stalls emerge at dusk on a narrow street behind the tourist office with illuminated communal tables to sit at. There's no better place to taste a wide variety of cheap, well-cooked local food. There are plenty of vegetarian stalls offering a range of dishes for just 15,000K. Whole roast fish stuffed with lemongrass is a bargain at around 25,000K.
Baguette StallsSANDWICHES$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Kitsarat & Th Chao Fa Ngum; h7am-10pm)
A variety of well-filled French-bread sandwiches are available at makeshift baguette stalls facing the tourist office. Lao pâté is a delight. Fresh fruit shakes are also a favourite here.
Blue LagoonINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.blue-lagoon-restaurant.com; Th Ounheun; mains 75,000-140,000K; h10am-10pm; W)
A favourite with expats for its lantern-festooned walls, leafy patio and jazz-infused atmosphere. The menu features Luang Prabang sausage, pasta, boeuf bourguignon, salads and very tasty láhp.
South of Phu Si
Secret PizzaITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56528881; www.facebook.com/pizzasecret; Ban Nasaphanh; mains 50,000-60,000K; hfrom 6.30pm Tue & Fri)
Alright, so the secret is out, but it's well worth sharing. Long the preserve of Luang Prabang residents, host Andrea prepares wood-fired pizzas, classic lasagne and homemade gnocchi in the garden of his lovely home. Profiteroles round things off nicely, plus a fine bottle of Italian wine. Signposted from the main road; it's at the end of Soi 3 off Rte 13.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oIcon KlubBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.iconklub.com; Th Sisavang Vatthana; h5pm-late; W)
Imagine a place in the afterlife where writers meet and conversation is as free flowing as the fabulous mixology cocktails. You pull up a pew next to Jack Kerouac, and Anaïs Nin is reading in a cosy chair nearby… Icon may just be this place. A sculpted angel rises out of the wall and there are poetry slams, jam sessions and kick-ass tunes.
UtopiaBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.utopialuangprabang.com; mains 30,000K; h8am-11pm; W)
Lush riverside bar with peaceful views of the Nam Khan; think recliner cushions, low-slung tables and hookah pipes. Chill over a fruit shake, burger, breakfast or omelette, play a board game or volleyball, or just lose yourself in a sea of candles come sunset. Brilliantly designed with faux Khmer ruins and creeper vines, surely the city's liveliest outdoor bar.
Bar 525BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212424; www.525.rocks; h5-11.30pm; W)
Parked down a quiet street, there's nothing retiring about this chic, urban bar. Sit outside stargazing on the terrace, inside at the long bar in low-lit style, or chill in the comfy lounge. Cocktails galore, glad rags, stunning photography on the walls and a sophisticated crowd. Snacks like buffalo sliders and quesadillas are also available.
Chez MattBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sisavang Vatthana
; h7pm-late; W)
Ox-blood walls, low lights and a handsome bar glittering with polished crystal, this candlelit haunt is central and peaceful, adding a dash of upscale sophistication to the city's nocturnal landscape. With its cocktails, French and Italian wine cellar and chilled music, this makes for a good spot to dress up in your finest before going somewhere swish for dinner.
La PistocheBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://lapistochepool.wordpress.com; Ban Phong Pheng; entry 30,000K; h10am-11pm; Wc)
The perfect medicine for landlocked Laos, La Pistoche offers two swimming pools set amid a spacious garden in the suburbs south of town. Entry includes pétanque and water volleyball if you're feeling active. Generous happy hours from noon to 7pm mean there's a bit of a hippy-trippy vibe by day, but full-moon parties are on the cards.
Lao Lao GardenBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Kingkitsarat; mains 30,000K; h5pm-late; W)
Lit up like a jungle Vegas, this garden bar on the skirts of Phu Si calls you to chill by candlelight, listen to easy sounds and warm the cockles of your heart by the firepit. Besides cocktails there's a wide range of foods, including orlam and buffalo stew, plus cook-it-yourself sìn daat (Lao hotpot barbecue).
Dao FahCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h9-11.30pm)
A young Lao crowd packs this cavernous club, located just near the southern bus terminal. Live bands playing Lao and Thai pop alternate with DJs spinning rap and hip hop.
3Entertainment
Moonlight CinemaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://ockpoptok.com/eat/moonlight-cinema; Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre; ticket incl return tuk-tuk & dinner 70,000K; h9am-10pm; W)S
The latest films are shown at the Ock Pop Tok centre every Thursday at 7.30pm, screened after 7pm dinner. Tuk-tuk is inclusive; pick-up is from in front of the Joma Bakery on Th Chao Fa Ngum at 6.45pm. Book online.
Garavek StorytellingTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-96777300; www.garavek.com; Th Khounswa; tickets 50,000K; h6.30pm)S
Garavek means 'magical bird', and this enchanting hour-long show – comprising an old man dressed in tribalwear playing a haunting khene (Lao-style lyre) alongside an animated storyteller (in English) recalling local Lao folk tales and legends – takes your imagination on a flight of fancy. Held in an intimate 30-seat theatre. Book ahead.
L'Etranger Books & TeaCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/booksandtea; Th Kingkitsarat; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; W)S
Order a drink and a bite to eat and then get comfy on a lounging cushion to watch the latest blockbuster and indie films shown nightly at 7pm. If it's quiet you usually get to choose the film. Run by a friendly cineaste (she's also a script writer in LA).
7Shopping
The best areas for shopping are Th Sisavangvong and the Mekong waterfront, where characterful boutiques selling local art, gilded buddhas, handmade paper products and all manner of tempting souvenirs abound. Silver shops are attached to several houses in Ban Ho Xieng, the traditional royal silversmiths' district. And don't forget the night market where you'll find a cornucopia of handicrafts.
oHandicraft Night MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sisavangvong; h5.30-10pm)
Every evening this tourist-oriented but highly appealing market assembles along Th Sisavangvong and is deservedly one of Luang Prabang’s biggest tourist lures. Low-lit, quiet and devoid of hard selling, it has myriad traders hawking silk scarves and wall hangings, plus Hmong appliqué blankets, T-shirts, clothing, shoes, paper, silver, bags, ceramics, bamboo lamps and more.
Prices are remarkably fair but cheaper 'local' creations sometimes originate from China, Thailand or Vietnam – as a rule of thumb, if it's a scarf or bed runner, those with perfectly smooth edges are factory-made copies.
oBig Tree GalleryART
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-212262; www.adriberger.com/general/luang-prabang; Th Khem Khong; h9am-9pm; W)
Photographer and film-maker Adri Berger's compositions of rural Laos capture that honeyed afternoon light like no one else. His ochre-walled gallery-cum-restaurant is in a breezy wooden house with a delightful palm-shaded terrace to read in. Upstairs you'll find the bulk of his work. His prints can be safely sent home in protective containers. Exquisite souvenirs.
oQueen Design LaoCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; [email protected]; Th Sakkarin, 1/17 Ban Khili; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; W)
This stylish Aussie-run boutique has a choice selection of hand-woven linen, silk and cotton dresses, chemises, skirts, and beach shawls made by Chris Boyle, a renowned designer in Oz. Most are one-off pieces. As well as pashminas and scarves, it also sells organic face scrubs and wood designer glasses, and are the sole distributor for Article 22 Bomb Jewellery.
TAEC ShopARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.taeclaos.org; Th Sakkarin; h9am-8pm)S
This new shop sister to the TAEC museum is a safe way to buy the finest handicrafts made in Laos – be it clothes, bags or bed runners – in the knowledge they are not fakes and your purchase is directly benefiting local people. They make the perfect presents to take home.
Ma Te SaiARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.matesai.com; cnr Th Kingkitsarat & Th Phommatha)S
The name means 'where is it from' in Lao, and all the silk, paper and gift items in this attractive boutique come from villages around Luang Prabang. A great selection of silk pashminas, cool T-shirts and linen chemises.
Luang Prabang ArtisansARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55571125; www.luangprabangartisanscafe.com; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; W)S
Located in a 100-year-old wooden home on a narrow lane running from the main street, this great little shop sells handicrafts like naturally dyed cushions, silk purses and pashminas, handmade paper and kids' soft toys.
Pathana Boupha Antique HouseANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Phommatha; h10am-5pm)
Follow the sweeping stairs in the garden of this impressive old French mansion to discover an Aladdin's cave of antique buddhas, golden naga, silver betel-nut pots, Akha-style bracelets and Hmong necklaces. Also sells fine silk scarves from Sam Neua. It's not cheap but this long-established shop is respected for its quality.
KopnoiARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/kopnoi; Th Kingkitsarat; h9am-9pm; W)S
Kopnoi sells stunning handicrafts from ethnic-minority craftsmen; Akha bracelets, silk pashminas, fine jewellery, packaged spices and teas, and local art. If you're 'shopped out' by the night market, this is a restful alternative; the quality is good, and there's no chance of you buying fake Chinese copies. Find it at L'Etranger Books & Tea.
Ock Pop TokCLOTHING, HANDICRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254406; www.ockpoptok.com; Th Sakkarin; h8am-9pm)S
Ock Pop Tok works with a wide range of different tribes to preserve their handicraft traditions. Fine silk and cotton scarves, chemises, dresses, wall hangings and cushion covers make perfect presents. Weaving courses are also available.
Orange TreeANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Khem Khong; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; W)S
This riverfront antiques shop is a testament to its owners' magpie wanderings, with Hong Kong tea tins, Chinese retro alarm clocks, Mao revolutionary crockery, Bakelite inkwells, Vietnamese clocks and Burmese Buddhist statuary. Curio heaven!
Monument BooksBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.monument-books.com; Th Khem Khong, Ban Wat Nong; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
Part of a regional chain, this shop stocks guidebooks, maps, novels, magazines and books on Lao history.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Luang Prabang is an incredibly safe and intimate city. But of course there are always exceptions. Beware of buying drugs; you'll probably be offered them by tuk-tuk drivers, but given they may well be undercover cops and the fine is around US$500 if you get caught, it's not worth it. Also, if you
have a security box in your room, use it. Beware, too, of leaving valuables out in hostels; theft does sometimes point towards the owners as it does occasionally to other travellers.
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Though it's not advisable to be outwardly amorous with your partner, there are many gay-owned restaurants and bars where you'll be made to feel welcome. For a list of these visit www.utopia-asia.com.
Internet Access
It's increasingly common to find wi-fi in guesthouses, hotels and cafes, but you'll need your own laptop or mobile device. Most guesthouses and hotels also include a desktop computer in the lobby area for the use of guests. If your laptop is playing up or your camera's flash memory has been zapped by viruses, DSCom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %071-253905; Th Kitsarat; h9.30am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Sat) might be able to save the day; the owner speaks good English.
Medical Services
Chinese Hospital ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %071-254026; Ban Phu Mok) Modern medical equipment and supplies, but sometimes short of trained personnel.
Pharmacie ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sakkarin; h8.30am-8pm) Stocks basic medicines. On weekends, hours are variable.